Reykjavik, Iceland – 48+ hours with Mark (my oldest son)

It was great that Mark could come over to Iceland from London for a quick rendezvous with his Mum. Wasn't I lucky! We packed a lot into the time, although we originally planned to be laidback and not push it!

The lovely warm waters of the Blue Lagoon, in a freezing wind!

Mark reckoned we couldn't be in Reykjavik and not visit the Blue Lagoon, so the first afternoon we caught the bus out there, and spent a couple of hours escaping the cold icy wind, soaking in the hot water that's left over from the town's geothermal electrical plant. Deliciously warm, and beautifully blue, we had a great time! The sauna was a refuge from the wind, and made going back out to the cold much easier.

The 'rift' between the two tectonic plates

The next day we really packed it in, starting with a 'Golden Circle' tour, combined with snowmobiling. The Golden Circle consists of 1.) a visit to Pingvellir National Park, which was the site of Iceland's first Parliament, and also where you can see the rift between the Eurasian tectonic plate and the American plate – fascinating to see the gap, which apparently is increasing every year. (I did wonder why anyone from Christchurch would want to go and see tectonic plate movement, but I guess there are a few nutters in this world)  2.) was the Gullfoss waterfall, very beautiful and wild. And 3.)  Geysir, 3 geysers in all, but only one active, approximately every 8 minutes – it made me jump when it went off!

It was tricky taking pics from the back of the snowmobile!

Snowmobiling was great fun, and Mark's aim was to go as fast as he could (it's been his goal ever since he first got on Brian's wee bike on the farm) but he had to cope with his mother yelling at one point! He got the snowmobile to 62kms at one point apparently. It's a wild place, this Iceland, and you could spent weeks enjoying the outdoors. Many back country roads are now closed for the winter, although the first big snow fall is yet to happen.




Back in Reykjavik we visited an innovative restaurant, the Fish Market. Not cheap, but a great experience. First time visitors are recommended to go for the Tasting Menu, where you get an entree sized plate of just about every dish on the menu - 8 dishes in all. The young woman owner/chef is combining Icelandic food with Asian cuisine, and it's all absolutely delicious, and expensive! To top off our busy day, we joined a Northern Lights bus trip out into the country, escaping the city's light pollution. We didn't have to go very far before the Auroras started playing in the sky, and both Mark and I thoroughly enjoyed taking photos – taking turns on my camera. For those techie minded amongst you – a Nikon D7000 DSLR with a Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 lens. I set it at f2.8 for about 15 seconds, on ISO 800.

From Mark's and my Aurora evening shoot

The next morning, far too early, and far too soon, Mark shot off back to London, and work. I think he slept the whole way on the plane!

St. John's City and Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada

Some of the brightly coloured homes in St.John's NFL

After 'Clipper Adventurer' arriving in St. John's Newfoundland I spent a couple of days with Sue, also from the ship, renting a car, and visiting Mistaken Point in the South of NFL with its ancient fossils in the rocks (Google 'Mistaken Point' – it's a World Heritage site), and Tuckamore forests, and then Trinity village further north, a pretty little village with beautifully kept houses and businesses, and a very photogenic church. I'd have loved to stay.

Peridodite area in the Gros Morne Tablelan

After Sue left for her home I took off to the west of NFL, visiting Gros Morne National Park for 3 days. One day's hike took me up to the Tablelands, where there is an area of great interest to geologists, with its fields of peridodite, a rock that forms part of the earth's mantle, not usually visible to the naked eye. Quite soapy feeling, it doesn't support much plant life and so the area looks particularly barren. I also drove up the west coast quite a way the next day, visiting an old and quaint lighthouse, and looking at the little fishing settlements on the way. It was autumn, and the tree colours were vibrant, almost luminous. Unfortunately most places were shut down for the winter, and it was very very quiet. I stayed at a lovely spot in Norris Point near Rocky Harbour, but I was the only one there!

Quaint houses in St. John's, near the harbour 'narrows'

The 'Newfies' are a delightful lot, with intriguing personalities and a fascinating accent. They're quite unique, in a very special way, with a strong sense of being part of the land, and having a right to be there. I liked them!

NORTHERN LIGHTS – Kangerlussuaq, Greenland

 We did see Northern Lights in Greenland, while I was still on the ship from Illulisat down to Kangerlussuaq, but I hadn't got my head around taking photos of them at that stage, and the results were patchy. I went outside at night when I was staying at the Polar Lodge at Kangerlussuaq, about 10pm or so, and was entranced to see the lights playing in the sky. Also, at Illulisat, the lights were there again, dancing all over the sky.  Such an entrancing sight! I needed to be rugged up warm; it was pretty darn cold, My hands were absolutely freezing. 
Having a tripod is a must. And Jude – my little light weight Sirui tripod was just the job, as long as it wasn't too windy.

GREENLAND - WILD LABRADOR – NEWFOUNDLAND

Finding safety in a Greenland fjord let us explore the shoreline

Voyaging with Adventure Canada on the Clipper Adventurer was a different experience from other ship trips I've done before. The focus was mainly cultural, with many different experience both on and off the ship. On the staff there were folk from Greenland, Labrador, Newfoundland and mainly Canada in general, who were there to give information about the land, and the people of the land, and to guide us on different sites. There were two authors and a painter, several musicians (very proficient) and a Greenlandic woman, Ayju, who seemed to be able to turn her hand to just about anything. There were also 'expedition' staff, whose extensive experience in the Arctic helped with understanding the conditions and maintaining safety, mainly when we were on land eg taking rifles in case of sightings of polar bears and making sure that everyone was kept together.. There were also some experts in geology, Arctic travel and photography.

Some excitement when the glacier calved

There weren't many empty berths, so there were many passengers to be fed, and to be ferried to and from in the zodiacs. I think that there were 125 passengers, so it was impossible to get to know everyone, but there was a lot of camaraderie and fun. There was much entertainment from the staff too, particularly in the evening at the daily 'recap', some of it interesting and informative, and other times ribald humour and hilarity.

I had a lovely cabin-mate Marion, who lives in the NW of Vancouver city, and who I hope to see again before I leave Vancouver for NZ at the end of the month. We didn't live in each other's pockets the whole time, but did enjoy some good tête-à-têtes in our cabin, as well as making the most of the walks in the wild places, some of them quite long and steep.

Glowing autumn colours

Polar bears? Yes, some, but usually quite distant. Some birds, the occasional breaching minke whale and a couple of seals, and that was about it for wildlife. It was fascinating to go ashore and visit little villages, and meet some locals, and see their handwork and the way they have lived for years. The scenery was stunning as you'll see from the pics. The autumn colours on the low lying slopes were vibrant, almost glowing – no longer north of the Arctic circle, but still very constrained in size by the climate. We had to rug up well when we were ashore, but with the right clothing it was all fine – although our first few days were very wet and stormy. So stormy in fact that we holed up at the top end of a fjord for 24 hours before crossing the Davis Strait from Greenland to the very northern tip of Labrador. The whole voyage was dictated by the weather, and there were a couple of destinations that we just couldn't get to, because of a persistent following low pressure system. It got quite rough a couple of times too.

Our final destination was St. John's in Newfoundland, the capital city of Newfoundland and Labrador province. It was a shame to have to part from so many lovely people – after a fortnight you really do get to know some people quite well!

The Vikings landed in northern Newfoundland,
 at l'Anse aux Meadows - this is
 a replica sod dwelling

ICEBERGS IN ILLULISAT – which means 'Icebergs in Icebergs', in Greenlandic!

Mona's home is dark blue, just right of centre

I loved returning to Illulisat. It was such a quick visit when we called in there with the Akademic Ioffe; I'd had a sense when I was there that I was just checking it  out!

I stayed with Mona, a Greenlandic woman, whose husband works away from home in the capital city of Nuuk, for 6 weeks at a time, and who enjoys having people to stay. She was just lovely, and we enjoyed each other's company. She said she couldn't speak english, but really – she could!

The icebreaker, Illulisat style!

 I went on an Icefjord Tour, in the dinkiest and quaintest boat you ever saw, the 'Clane', with a old time Greenlandic fellow, who sure knew what he was doing. He even tried to pretend that his boat (it did have a cabin) was an icebreaker, tried to push an iceberg out of the way and left some red paint on it! I pretended to step off the front of the boat onto the iceberg, which had him cracking up laughing. The immense numbers of the icebergs that are found in Disko Bay have made it a Unesco World Heritage site, and it's mindblowingly stupendous. I did see hundreds of icebergs from the ship when we came through, and we kayaked through just a few of them, but somehow the tour in that 'original' boat just took the cake.

Look what's at the bottom of Mona's street!

Walking to see an ancient site where Saqqaq, Thule and Dorset people have lived for thousands of years was an eye opener. How they did it astounds me. It certainly underscores the tenacity and depth of the human spirit. The places (saw all this in the fascinating Illulisat museum) they travelled to and from are way beyond the burnt stump – or should that be the smashed up igloo?



I loved the little town of Illulisat. It's quaint, and friendly, and not too touristy. There were a couple of women from France who stayed were staying at Mona's too and I found that I could still speak French! J'ai été stupéfié!!

Taken on a short evening stroll, from Mona's home

Next post? Hmmmm – the ship to 'Wild Labrador & Newfoundland'. I had a lovely cabin mate this time . . . . .  another story!

Kangerlussuaq Kayaking – what else could I call it!!

Lens-Parvia Brandt of Greenland Outdoors

If you think that I raved on about the Northwest Passage, wait till you read this lot. This was one of those unforgettable adventures, the ones that keep on getting even better when you're reliving them later.

Walking our gear over the washout, to L. Ferguson

Trying to book something in Greenland during September is tricky at best. Their main summer season is over, winter hasn't yet kicked in, so attractive opportunities are thin on the ground. I was very lucky to find a reputable and on-the-ball agent at Gronland Resor (who happens to be in Sweden), who picked up on my ideas and produced worthwhile activities for my 9 days in Greenland.

First up was the kayaking/trekking venture that I did with Jens-Parvia Brandt, of Greenland Outdoor. Just into his first year of operating, Jens-Parvia is a lover of the outdoors, is a competent hunter and kayak guide, and has been a leader of the Greenland Ice Patrol. Half Danish half Greenlandic, he's at home in either culture, but calls Greenland home. With his wife and little daughter, he lives in Kangerlussuaq and frequently brings in muskox and caribou for their freezer. http://www.greenlandoutdoors.com/

We set off from Jens-Parvia's home, having to walk our gear over the Watson River, because a flood pouring down from the ice-cap two months out the access bridge. Apparently it was a case of 'when', not 'if'. So we walked our gear to Lake Ferguson, where Jens-Parvia has some kayaks stored, and paddled up to the head of the lake – an easy paddle, nice boat, and so far so good. The next bit wasn't so easy! If I'd know what I was in for, I probably wouldn't have gone. I've got a dodgy knee that has been playing up for months, and carrying gear up 1200' of steadily increasing hillsides didn't do it any favours. However, some bloody mindedness must have kicked in, because I did it, albeit pretty slowly. I'll bet it's one of the slowest trips Jens-Parvia has ever done, but he never said a word, and just kept on smiling and being kind. I had one walking stick, and used the shaft of my Lendal paddle as a second stick for going back downhill. And then we used the blades as plates for our lunch – everything must have at least two uses!

Can you smell it? Mmm mmmmmm!

So we eventually arrived at the campsite above Lake Tasersuatsiaap Qalia (try pronouncing it!), pitched out tents, and Jens-Parvia started cooking our meal – caribou stew, with musk ox fat, and rice. I can't tell you how good it was – delicious, and so moreish.  The second night, all hunted by Jens-Parvia, many small pieces of caribou steaks and musk ox fat - all fried quickly on a thin piece of slate he'd found over near the stream that emptied the top lake. None of the meat was allowed to be left over (that wasn't too hard), so as not to attract the foxes. And the third night, more tasty stew, while we were sheltering behind a large rock to cook over the fire, and working at keeping warm while it hailed and snowed! Wow did it get cold – and even colder the next morning, with snow still lying around.

Yes, I slept very well – aren't anti-inflammatories great when you need them, and it wasn't too cold at all. Not the first night, anyway.  All we had to do the next day was to get our boats (he has more stored at the 2nd lake) down to the water, and away we went, up to the head of the lake, keeping our eyes peeled for musk oxen. We'd seen a few walking up the first day, and sure enough there were more on the next two days. There actually are many musk oxen in the area and we were lucky seeing some close up – but not having too close an encounter! Jens-Parvia had to chase one away from the camp when he thought it had come too close – 25 metres away. I wouldn't have minded if it'd come closer, but it's known that people have been killed if they get in their way, so best not.

Our first view of the visitor

Getting closer . . . . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jens-Parvia chase him away at this point! - no zoom on camera

  Our second day's paddling saw us paddling around a different part of the lake, still looking out for musk oxen, and retrieving some food stores Jens-Parvia has stashed on the lake's little island. The paddling was easy, apart from a freakish wind that sprang up  while we were going back to camp the first day.

Lost in the forest in Greenland? (blue backpack behind me)

 All the plants are very low growing, much like any above the tree line in New Zealand, except that there were trees up there, willows. Ground hugging willows. They say that if you get lost in the forest in Greenland you should stand up! It was autumn, and the colours of the changing leaves were glowing. 

 Walking back down to L.Ferguson wasn't as bad as I'd feared, with the help of my trust Lendal paddle shaft, and then we had the short paddle back to the bottom of the lake. All over far too soon. I just loved it! Was I an adventurer in another life?

Our campsite at L. Tasersuatsiaap Qalia

And next? Icebergs at Illulisat - but I'm waiting for the plane to Iceland, so it'll have to be another time.
Vi ses - Jillian

Sailing the Northwest Passage – who me?

Baffin Island kayaking - breathtaking!

Looking through the photos from the Northwest Passage makes me realize that yes, I really did do it! It's always been a dream, even a fantasy, to go through to Baffin Island, maybe even Ellesmere Island, and go on to Greenland. Ellesmere Island will have to wait for another trip (I've got the website) but I've felt the magic of the Canadian Arctic and stayed a while in Greenland. One Ocean Expeditions' 'Akademik Ioffe' takes twice as many passengers as Aurora Expeditions' Polar Pioneer, so is larger, and although there is kayaking, the convoluted performance for getting the kayaks + kayakers into the water is remarkable. I have to say that Jimmy the Kayak guide handled it all with considerable aplomb and earned our respect. My first focus was the kayaking, and initially it was a tad ho hum, with fairly uninspiring paddles, but that changed rapidly the further east we sailed. The towering mountains and deep dark fjords of Baffin Island, and the hundreds of incredible icebergs of Greenland's Illulisat and Disko Bay were every bit as astounding as I'd been led to believe.

Beechey Island, where 3 of Franklin's men are buried

The history of the NorthwestPassage is full of daring do, heartbreak and despair, and death and loss. The much vaunted John Franklin's vessels have never been found, let alone any more than 3 of his sailors, and huge amounts of money have and are being spent trying to find out what happened to him. At least Scott made it easy for people to know what happened to him and his men. It was another John, John Rae, who completed the last link of the northwest passage, through to Greenland, and I'd never heard of him. The historian on board the Ioffe was full of fascinating information about the exploits of the area, and it was made all the more captivating as she's a wee slip of a girl with a gorgeous Scottish accent! I had to hand it to the staff on Ioffe. Between the Expedition Leader, Boris, and including all the staff there was a harmonious and enviable working atmosphere, which made the voyage very pleasant for the passengers; can't do better than that. We had a photographer and painter husband team on board; Daisy Gilardini, a world acclaimed photographer, and David McKeown, a wonderful watercolour artist. They made themselves available to us, pretty much at any time, and produced a slideshow recapping the voyage, made from the passengers' photos, and with Daisy and David 'filling in the gaps' with their photos and videos. We were presented with a USB stick containing the slideshow plus other relevant trip documentation at the end of the trip; a nice gesture.

Paddling near the Equip Sermia glacier, Baffin Island

We had a great group of kayakers, from very experiences, to near-novice, and somehow everyone was happy with the challenges we had. One girl had only paddled 3 times before, and ended up happily going off in a single by herself, with a grin from ear to ear, totally chuffed with herself. I paddled a single all the time, but could have easily gone in a double had there been someone wanting a partner. The equipment was in good condition, and the drysuits were great – Kokatat.

Can't a bloke have any privacy round here?

And yes, there were polar bears. Many. Maybe 35 or so, all up. So exciting to see two sets of Mumma Polar Bears with their twin babies, on a zodiac trip through the Bellot Straits. The polar bear who strolled right down to the shore in front of our zodiac, turning its back to us and pooping was polar hilarity at its best. Beechey Island may be the resting place of some of Franklin's sailors,




 but it was also home to an almost tame arctic fox, who posed for us most artistically, in between racing madly between its food and anything else taking its fancy.

A great two week's voyage. I feel privileged to have been able to make it.
After arriving in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, I went on an amazing trekking/kayaking adventure, as well as going back to Illulisat for three days - that will have to be in another blog! 
Vi ses . . . bye for now (that's Danish - can't manage Greenlandic!)