Back to the Arctic - Canada, Greenland and Iceland: Kangerlussuaq Kayaking

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Kangerlussuaq Kayaking – what else could I call it!!

Lens-Parvia Brandt of Greenland Outdoors

If you think that I raved on about the Northwest Passage, wait till you read this lot. This was one of those unforgettable adventures, the ones that keep on getting even better when you're reliving them later.


Walking our gear over the washout, to L. Ferguson

Trying to book something in Greenland during September is tricky at best. Their main summer season is over, winter hasn't yet kicked in, so attractive opportunities are thin on the ground. I was very lucky to find a reputable and on-the-ball agent at Gronland Resor (who happens to be in Sweden), who picked up on my ideas and produced worthwhile activities for my 9 days in Greenland.

First up was the kayaking/trekking venture that I did with Jens-Parvia Brandt, of Greenland Outdoor. Just into his first year of operating, Jens-Parvia is a lover of the outdoors, is a competent hunter and kayak guide, and has been a leader of the Greenland Ice Patrol. Half Danish half Greenlandic, he's at home in either culture, but calls Greenland home. With his wife and little daughter, he lives in Kangerlussuaq and frequently brings in muskox and caribou for their freezer. http://www.greenlandoutdoors.com/

We set off from Jens-Parvia's home, having to walk our gear over the Watson River, because a flood pouring down from the ice-cap two months out the access bridge. Apparently it was a case of 'when', not 'if'. So we walked our gear to Lake Ferguson, where Jens-Parvia has some kayaks stored, and paddled up to the head of the lake – an easy paddle, nice boat, and so far so good. The next bit wasn't so easy! If I'd know what I was in for, I probably wouldn't have gone. I've got a dodgy knee that has been playing up for months, and carrying gear up 1200' of steadily increasing hillsides didn't do it any favours. However, some bloody mindedness must have kicked in, because I did it, albeit pretty slowly. I'll bet it's one of the slowest trips Jens-Parvia has ever done, but he never said a word, and just kept on smiling and being kind. I had one walking stick, and used the shaft of my Lendal paddle as a second stick for going back downhill. And then we used the blades as plates for our lunch – everything must have at least two uses!

Can you smell it? Mmm mmmmmm!

So we eventually arrived at the campsite above Lake Tasersuatsiaap Qalia (try pronouncing it!), pitched out tents, and Jens-Parvia started cooking our meal – caribou stew, with musk ox fat, and rice. I can't tell you how good it was – delicious, and so moreish. The second night, all hunted by Jens-Parvia, many small pieces of caribou steaks and musk ox fat - all fried quickly on a thin piece of slate he'd found over near the stream that emptied the top lake. None of the meat was allowed to be left over (that wasn't too hard), so as not to attract the foxes. And the third night, more tasty stew, while we were sheltering behind a large rock to cook over the fire, and working at keeping warm while it hailed and snowed! Wow did it get cold – and even colder the next morning, with snow still lying around.

Yes, I slept very well – aren't anti-inflammatories great when you need them, and it wasn't too cold at all. Not the first night, anyway. All we had to do the next day was to get our boats (he has more stored at the 2nd lake) down to the water, and away we went, up to the head of the lake, keeping our eyes peeled for musk oxen. We'd seen a few walking up the first day, and sure enough there were more on the next two days. There actually are many musk oxen in the area and we were lucky seeing some close up – but not having too close an encounter! Jens-Parvia had to chase one away from the camp when he thought it had come too close – 25 metres away. I wouldn't have minded if it'd come closer, but it's known that people have been killed if they get in their way, so best not.

Our first view of the visitor

Getting closer . . . .

Jens-Parvia chase him away at this point! - no zoom on camera

Our second day's paddling saw us paddling around a different part of the lake, still looking out for musk oxen, and retrieving some food stores Jens-Parvia has stashed on the lake's little island. The paddling was easy, apart from a freakish wind that sprang up while we were going back to camp the first day.


Lost in the forest in Greenland? (blue backpack behind me)

All the plants are very low growing, much like any above the tree line in New Zealand, except that there were trees up there, willows. Ground hugging willows. They say that if you get lost in the forest in Greenland you should stand up! It was autumn, and the colours of the changing leaves were glowing.

Walking back down to L.Ferguson wasn't as bad as I'd feared, with the help of my trust Lendal paddle shaft, and then we had the short paddle back to the bottom of the lake. All over far too soon. I just loved it! Was I an adventurer in another life?